South Swell

This weekend my dad, Robert, and I took our 24 foot trimaran out to some of the best surf I’ve ridden in a long time. We spent three days on the boat and were reward with great surf on each one. This wave was on the first day and I and was the only one out, I was ridding my 5’0 kneeboard. 

I took out the kneeboard because this was one of Greenough’s favorite spots and boy did I learn why. It was fast and the rides were long, probably around the same length as inside the cove at Rincon. It’s a creepy place when you’re by yourself and can’t see anyone for miles in either direction. This wave will really play head games with you and the strong current trying to suck you out to sea doesn’t make it any less gnarly.

The next day there were a few people out and the wind had backed off a little but so had the size. Still, there were some really great waves with excellent tube sections. The 5’0 met its match and ended up with a broken fin. My dad had scored one of the inside bowls when he got stuffed into the sand snapping off the fin, a small sacrifice for waves like these. 
This day I was ridding the 7’0 diamond tail 2+1 and it couldn’t have been a better choice. It was able to punch through the wind chop and allowed me to sit a little further out to catch those beasts before they were fully pitched. The size also allowed for an easier paddle out and reduced the struggle with the current. Man did it fly through the sections and draw the sickest cut backs. After this session we set sail to the west, heading for the next spot.
Day three was a little different. We pulled up to the spot at seven and there were already four boats and eleven people in the water. We had been hoping to beat the Fourth of July crowd but apparently so had everyone else. It is also the most popular spot in the area. 
We were instantly noticed being the only sail boat in the area. We dropped anchor and paddled over to the break. Some really good, clean glassy waves here and they were easier going then the gnarly stuff we had left to the west. Finally we had enough of the crowd and set sail for home. We tried one more little left but the kelp was way too dense. Our journey back was diffidently not boring though. We had a least seven foot swells running with twenty to thirty knot winds. Dressed in full foul weather gear we manned our lines and got drenched by every wave bashing over our bow.

Sunburn, wet, salty, tired and three hours later we finally pulled into the harbor. We started unloading the boat and trying to get our land legs back when the motor boats from the spot started pulling in. They were astonished that we were already back and unloading. When the winds are up we make good time, proving that sailboats aren’t always to slow. Next time maybe they’ll consider a trimaran.

-foul weather gear and lookin tired-